The-Hogs.net - Washington Football Discussion, Redskins to Commanders Era

Everytime I hear the name Weurful, I think of maple syrup.

You may have a growth of some type on a key brain lobe. I'd have that looked at, asap.

tcwest10 wrote:I'll do it for 25,000. Save you some money.

what a guy....

i'm cut-throat. $24,900. fully insured. will travel.

hailskins666 wrote:i'm cut-throat. $24,900. fully insured. will travel.

Sure you will.
...but could you resist drawing little horns and blood-dripping fangs on the faces of the diners in his "Last Supper" mural ? I think not.
You're out, man.

FanfromAnnapolis wrote:Pretend like the painting is a lot of fun, and when one of your buddies walks by you can trick him into trading your painting job for his new-found piece of string.

Reading your Tom Sawyer again FFA!

I remember my first house - like if was 20 years ago.

Enjoy - your weekends will never be the same again.

1. we spec wood floors on concrete slabs all the time. first, make sure that the slab is clean and free from debris or old adhesive. lay down a thin underlayment called 'polyfit' which is made by junkers floors, and comes in 4-foot long rolls. this helps to prevent moisture from coming through the slab and damaging the underside of the flooring. on top of the polyfit, lay (don't attach in any way) 2-foot wide strips of 3/4" cdx plywood. on the bottom of the plywood strips, kerf thin joints (3/8" wide +/-) at 12-inches each way. make sure that the strips are 1/4" apart from one another. the kerfs and spacing will allow the subfloor to move independently of the slab (since they have different moduli of elasticity) and prevent the floor from buckling. after the plywood subfloor, attach your wood flooring to the subfloor, as suggested by the manufacturer. essentially, the wood floor and subfloor are 'floating' above the slab. do you have radiant heat? if so, you'll want to mention that to whomever you're buying your flooring from, as it might affect the species you select.

2. if we're talking about wall insulation, then that can be tough in existing homes, unless you plan to rip off the drywall throughout. i'd suggest that you open up a pilot hole in a closet somewhere to see what is actually there (if nothing else, it'll be good practice for patching holes in drywall-if you have kids, you'll ned to be a pro at it ). if you see nothing, then blown-in is probably your best bet. it still stinks, but it beats ripping down drywall and installing batt insulation. they say that some blown in insulation won't settle, but i don't believe it. you don't have too many other options, that i know of, at least.

since the majority of air infiltration comes through doors and windows, i'd suggest that you make sure that your windows and glass doors are insulated (meaning double panes of glass), have a 'low-E' coating, and move smoothly in their tracks. make sure all joints on the exterior are sealed. make sure that doors fit tightly into their frames, and have good weatherstripping.

if you mean attic insulation, that stuff lasts quite awhile, and unless it is matted down, wet, or looks moldy, it's most likely still doing its job. if you're going to put down new insulation, you can probably do it yourself. it comes in rolls, and you just lay it down. make sure to wear a mask and gloves.

while you're up there, make sure that all your bathroom exhausts vent through the roof, and not just into the attic. you're asking for moisture trouble if that's the case.

i hope this was helpful.

I believe they make wood flooring that can be put right over concrete. We plan on putting it down in our basement this year sometime. It has the backing right on it , click and lock real easy to install.

joebagadonuts wrote:1. we spec wood floors on concrete slabs all the time. first, make sure that the slab is clean and free from debris or old adhesive. lay down a thin underlayment called 'polyfit' which is made by junkers floors, and comes in 4-foot long rolls. this helps to prevent moisture from coing through the slab and damaging the underside of the flooring. on top of the polyfit, lay (don't attach in any way) 2-foot wide strips of 3/4" cdx plywood. on the bottom of the plywood strips, kerf thin joints (3/8" wide +/-) at 12-inches each way. make sure that the strips are 1/4" apart from one another. the kerfs and spacing will allow the subfloor to move independently of the slab (since they have different moduli of elasticity) and prevent the floor from buckling. after the plywood subfloor, attach your wood flooring to the subfloor, as suggested by the manufacturer. do you have radiant heat? if so, you'll want to mention that to whomever you're buying your flooring from, as it might affect the species you select.

1) Define "kerf", please. Also, I assume I'd kerf at every 12" along the length of each plywood (what's cdx)? Do they come in 8' long panels or something?

2) What is "radiant heat", exactly? I've run into the term in my searches, but I'm not sure what it is.

I take it I'll have to change the base boards as well, right?

Also, it seems like the floor has some black substance ( I assume it's some adhesive) that will definitely have to be removed. What can I use to remove it, and will I need to "reseal" the floor afterward?

actually, I was talking about attic insulation, but I certainly see the benefits of what you wrote:since the majority of air infiltration comes through doors and windows, i'd suggest that you make sure that your windows and glass doors are insulated (meaning double panes of glass), have a 'low-E' coating, and move smoothly. make sure all joints on the exteriro are sealed. make sure that doors fit tightly into their frames, and have good weatherstripping.

if you mean attic insulation, that stuff lasts quite awhile, and unless it is matted down, wet, or looks moldy, it's most likely still doing its job. if you're going to put down new insulation, you can probably do it yourself. it comes in rolls, and you just lay it down. make sure to wear a mask.

while you're up there, make sure that all your bathroom exhausts vent through the roof, and not just into the attic. you're asking for moisture trouble if that's thecase.

We're definitely gonna need to have our windows replaced, and I'm already getting estimates on them. Now, I'm just waiting on being able to finance them.

I only peeked at the insulation so far, and it seems to be a crumbly type of insulation in the attic. I think I'll have to change it.

Do I need to roll it up against the roof, or simply along the ceiling, in between the beams?

i hope this was helpful.

:up: Indeed, joe. Thanks sooooo much.


Bonus question: Anyone know what a bathroom remodeling costs? Nothing extravagant, just a regular bathoom redo. Yes, it involves gutting it and starting from scratch. I've got an estimate of about $7000. Does that sound high to anyone else?

always hire a pro. it may take time to do all you want or need... but, all those jobs that seem like you'd be saving all that money, you'd actually be spending it by messing up all the home projects now, and taking a hit on the resale value later. just . do whatever you want, that you think is reasonable. i mean hell, i'm just a jack-leg contractor who just got his license a year ago.

Easy answer to all of you

Hire.....hailskins666

REDEEMEDSKIN wrote:1) Define "kerf", please. Also, I assume I'd kerf at every 12" along the length of each plywood (what's cdx)? Do they come in 8' long panels or something?

a kerf is a groove that is cut into the bottom face (the face that lays against the concrete) of the plywood. cdx plywood is specially treated to resist moisture, and comes in 4-foot by 8-foot sheets. you should kerf in both directions.

hogred is right; they do make wood flooring products that are meant to be simply adhered to your slab. that may be the answer for you, give the amount of work involved in the process i described, and the possibility of having to remove and reinstall your baseboard. however, i have a 'floating' wood floor with no subfloor on the main level of my home (which is also a slab on grade, like yours) and in the summer, we get bumps all over the floor where the flooring has swelled. it could be that the previous owner put in something cheap, but just be warned that you may be dealing with the same issues if you get the right (or wrong, as the case may be) conditions.

REDEEMEDSKIN wrote:2) What is "radiant heat", exactly? I've run into the term in my searches, but I'm not sure what it is.

radiant heat is when flexible tubes are placed either in the concrete slab or below the wood subfloor. these tubes are arranged in such a pattern that when hot water circulated through them, they heat the floor surface, and consequently, your feet.

REDEEMEDSKIN wrote:Also, it seems like the floor has some black substance ( I assume it's some adhesive) that will definitely have to be removed. What can I use to remove it, and will I need to "reseal" the floor afterward?

if the adhesive is old enough, you could try to simply scrape it off, but if it doesn't come off easily, you could use a chemical agent to remove it. your local hardware store should be able to help you find a suitable product. depending on your method of removing the adhesive, and the condition of the slab afterwards, you may need to patch it and possibly seal it. again, your local hardware store expert (who will be your best friend very soon) should be able to guide you on a suitable product.

REDEEMEDSKIN wrote:I only peeked at the insulation so far, and it seems to be a crumbly type of insulation in the attic. I think I'll have to change it.

Do I need to roll it up against the roof, or simply along the ceiling, in between the beams?[/color]

you can do either, as long as you make sure that it is continuous, and extends to the end of the floor joists at either end (if you have soffit vents, make sure you can see them from above to allow air flow into the attic space). i'd suggest you simply lay the insulation in between the floor joists, because if you insulate the roof rafters, you'd have to leave space for air circulation between the insulation and the roof sheathing, and make sure that the ridge is vented and all, and that can be a pain. the 'crumbly type' might still be doing it's job of keeping the house insulated, if it's not matted down, wet, or looks moldy, and is filled to the top of the joists. you may also want to consider installing a subfloor up there so you can use it as extra storage space (as long as you don't mind your stored items being cold).

i half agree with hailskins about hiring a pro. for stuff that's way out of my league (or involves heavy duty electricity-no way i'm getting shocked) i hire someone else. but for stuff that i think i can handle (my wife and i have differences of opinion on this subject), i figure that i can do it wrong two or three times before i've spent what i would have on a contractor. plus, there's nothing like the feeling of doing it yourself.

REDEEMEDSKIN wrote: Bonus question: Anyone know what a bathroom remodeling costs? Nothing extravagant, just a regular bathoom redo. Yes, it involves gutting it and starting from scratch. I've got an estimate of about $7000. Does that sound high to anyone else?

it sounds reasonable to me. plumbing fixtures, drywall, finishes, all that stuff adds up quickly.

REDEEMEDSKIN wrote::up: Indeed, joe. Thanks sooooo much.

happy to help.

you can use a table saw or a circular saw to make the kerfs in the bottom of the plywood strips, and set the blade for a shallow cut. you'll need one or the other to cut the plywood into 2-foot strips anyway.

sounds like you're getting your hands dirty. it'll feel that much better when you get the whole thing sparkling new!!

Redeemed,

It is taking a LOT of time to pass the job on to joebagadonuts.

Promise a scholraship to Enzo the Redskin and he might help you.

joebagadonuts wrote:you can use a table saw or a circular saw to make the kerfs in the bottom of the plywood strips, and set the blade for a shallow cut. you'll need one or the other to cut the plywood into 2-foot strips anyway.

sounds like you're getting your hands dirty. it'll feel that much better when you get the whole thing sparkling new!!

My hands, my feet, my arms, my face... it all got dirty yesterday. But seing some sign of the concrete slab underneath was definitely worth it.

Once again, joebagadonuts, grazie, grazie!

R-I-C: What are you talkin' about? Who's Enzo? Please explain. Thanks.

ric, you have a pretty sharp memory.

he's referring to my 7-month old redskin fan, enzo. i attempted to post a photo of him not too long ago.

REDEEMEDSKIN wrote:R-I-C: What are you talkin' about? Who's Enzo? Please explain. Thanks. [/color]

Well it could be the most expensive Ferrari money can buy but it would not be a Redskin, Would it?

Enzo is one of the youngest Redskin fans anywhere near this board. I have not seen a post from him -yet- but I have no doubt that I wll see it one day.

joebagadonuts, Care to explain?

joebagadonuts wrote:ric, you have a pretty sharp memory.

I am a professional negotiator. It is my job NOT to forget. Sorry about the (bad) habit.

I still think the scholarship would work though...

hey, i'll take whatever i can get!!!

ric, no apology necessary. i was surprised, that's all. i wish i had a memory like that, and i'm sure my wife agrees

Congrats REDEEMEDSKIN, where will you live exactly in Falls Church, I live in Mclean right next to it... I might be able to help finding good stores and all that sort of stuff. ill be glad to help.
Again congrats..

redeemed, i was looking at my original flooring post, and realized that in my excitement (flooring! woot!) i neglected to mention that it's best if you lay the cdx plywood strips on the diagonal. no big deal if you've already laid them down perpendicular to the flooring direction.